Musings on Wine Topics, Wine Reviews

Opimian Society – Offering C244

C244 – Australia & New Zealand

Sydney Harbour Bridge with the Opera House
Sydney Harbour Bridge with the Opera House

The 2017 wine delivery season, kicking off with this Offering, marks a major year of transition for the Opimian Society as its investments in new resources, web site, processes, logo and other measures are rolled out for members. The Opimian Society# is “Canada’s wine club” and offers some 500 wines to 15,000 members across the country each year. All wines are selected by Master of Wine, Jane Masters, and sourced from suppliers from all the major wine regions of the world. Wines are ordered and delivered to members via the liquor boards or equivalent in each provincial and territorial jurisdiction (except Nunavut).

As a long-time member of Opimian I have had some experience with many of the wines and suppliers, and even visited some of the wineries. Some current (or prospective) members might find my comments helpful in making their own selections – keeping in mind everyone has their own tastes and preferences! In the late winter of 2016 I toured Australia and New Zealand and visited many of our suppliers.

New South Wales – Briar Ridge

Vineyards on the rolling hills of Briar Ridge
Vineyards on the rolling hills of Briar Ridge

We tasted some lovely Semillon wines at the winery, including the 2014 Early Harvest, which we had purchased in last year’s offering but had not arrived before our trip. I very much enjoyed the 2014 and my notes for it are very similar to the Offering’s notes for #8798 – Early Harvest Semillon 2015, so I would expect this one to be every bit as good. Briar Ridge also produces a Karl Stockhausen Semillon which is made in the old Hunter Valley style – perhaps we will see one of these on a future offering.

We tasted the 2014 version of #8799 – The Squire Chardonnay 2015 and loved it. The delicate touch of oak can only be detected in the hints of vanilla and creamy texture.

In addition to these white wines and a few others, we were treated to a comparison tasting between a traditional style Hunter Valley Shiraz, and Gwyneth Olsen’s Daisy Hill take on the grape. Although the older fashion was definitely lovely, I favoured Gwyneth’s! The description of the vinification of the #8800 – Old Vines Shiraz is very similar to my notes on the Daisy Hill, putting this wine on my list of possibles as well.

South Australia – Wines by Geoff Hardy

Stunning View from K1 Cellar Door
Stunning View from K1 Cellar Door

As Opimian’s we have been treated to Wines by Geoff Hardy for many years now, including their GMH, K1, and Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy labels. I have never been disappointed, and frankly, have been amazed at some of the fabulous wines we have enjoyed. During our visit Bec Hardy showed us a wide range of wines, including many that were on last year’s offering, before whisking us off to lunch with Richard Dolan at their new home. In particular, we tasted both the red and white GMH Meritage and several versions of Shiraz – all are recommended as very good value compared to the NLC equivalents.

Dave Conway recently held a tasting of some of the wines from this Offering, including the #8831 – Noble Sweet White which was absolutely stunning and is highly recommended!

We later visited the K1 facility which is set in a spectacular landscape in the Adelaide Hills where one of the wines we tasted was an earlier vintage of the #8833 – K1 Chardonnay 2015 – another great wine. Jane suggests this is a match for white Burgundy, and although it is getting up there in price, have you seen the prices for Burgundy lately!

South Australia – Hastwell & Lightfoot

Tasting the newly fermenting wine right from the vat with Martin Lightfoot
Tasting the newly fermenting wine right from the vat with Martin Lightfoot

We spent a morning with Martin Lightfoot, first visiting a couple of vineyards where harvest was in progress, and then the winery where the grapes were starting the wine-making process. It was fascinating to taste the sweet freshness of the newly pressed juice prior to any fermentation, and then sample a vat which had been fermenting for a few days. You could already see the character of the wine beginning to emerge.

We eventually adjourned to the tasting room where we enjoyed a number of examples. I first tasted a forerunner of Martin’s #8837 – Vermentino in 2012 and immediately liked it.

I find that Hastwell & Lightfoot wines have an appealing rustic feeling to them, as opposed perhaps, to a technical, clinical quality (which has its own favourable aspects). This is especially true for the red wines. We have enjoyed many labels over the last few years from this supplier.

South Australia – Shottesbrooke

I literally ran out of note paper at Shottesbrooke we tasted that many wines! We tasted the 2014 vintage of this year’s #8843 – Estate GSM 2015, and my only note for it is “quite fabulous”! I think I can recommend this one. I didn’t record the vintage, but it was likely the same vintage and wine as #8845 – Eliza Reserve Shiraz 2013. This wine is only produced in “special years” and my note is that this wine is “very special”! This seems to me to be a wonderful value at the price offered.

Other Australia & New Zealand

Kangaroos in Hunter Valley
Kangaroos in Hunter Valley

I’ve seen a fabulous little video of a visit by Jane Masters to Berton’s High Eden vineyard, mentioned in #8815 – Sauvignon Blanc, High Eden, 2016. It certainly has enticed me to try this wine, or perhaps the #8812 – Reserve Vermentino or #8813 – Reserve Chardonnay.

Our visit to Victoria was spent in the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula, so we didn’t get to Coonawarra in the western part of the state. The Millicent Road series from the Wingara Group, especially #8823 – Chardonnay, caught my eye from this region.

Margaret River may have the highest concentration of top wineries in all of Australia. We did get to Western Australia, but only had time for the Swan Valley wine district, unfortunately. The notes on the Chapman Grove #8848 – Cabernet Merlot and #8850 – Atticus Cabernet Sauvignon  have put these high on my “possibles” order list – leaning toward the “classical style” Cab Merlot.

Waiheke Island
Waiheke Island

Our trip to New Zealand was restricted to the North Island, so we missed the Marlborough region. I like the description for the #8851 – Sauvignon Blanc as I did not see “grassy” or “herbal” mentioned at all! We always like to have Kiwi Sauv Blanc in our cellar, so this is a possibility.

We visited seven wineries on Waiheke, but not Sam Harrop! Waikeke is a special little place with a couple of dozen small wineries, and being a convenient day-trip from Auckland, cellar door sales are a major part of many enterprises. Despite the hefty price, it is hard to ignore Jane’s recommendation of the #8854 – Cedalion, Block 31, Syrah.

# Disclosure: I am member of the board of directors of the Opimian Society and former area representative.

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