The Grapes of Italy

“A Tasting of Wines from Italy” is a roadshow held annually by the Italian Trade Commission in several major centres across Canada. I was in Montreal last week sampling wines from all over Italy with other members of the trade – buyers for hotels and restaurants, agents, writers, and liquor board personnel.

Tasting got under way at 11:30 in the morning and concluded at 5:00 PM! This was definitely a swirl, sniff, taste, and spit event. Even with all that time it was not possible to taste all the product from the 100 suppliers represented. I was content to get to as many regions as possible and find suppliers who were new to me. Along the way I nibbled on some typical Italian fare – more than adequate to serve for lunch. The main display area of the Marché Bonsecours was full of displays and people, but it was still possible to chat with the suppliers about their wines.

This tasting served as a reminder to me of the terrific diversity of grape varietals in Italy. The show featured some wines with the usual “international” varieties such as Merlot, as well as Italian ones which are reasonably familiar – Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, etc. Then there were the ones which are grown fairly extensively in Italy, but we don’t see too much of in our market – such as Grillo, Gavi, Aglianico, Vermentino, and Fiano. After that come rare varietals, such as Lacrima, and some which have been rescued from obscurity and brought back into commercial production, such as Pecorino and Pallagrello Bianco. All of these and more were represented at at the show, and the array of aromas and flavours displayed by these varietals should certainly pique the interest of any wine lover. Below are some of my highlights and wines worthy of mention from the event.

One of my first stops was at Tenuta Viglione from Puglia. You likely will recognize the Primitivo grape from this region based on a couple of labels at the NLC which are jammy fruit bombs. Such wines come from the flat coastal plain of the region. Viglione, however, is perched 450 meters above sea level, with overall cooler vineyards and a large swing between day and night temperatures. The grapes are able to ripen more slowly, and the difference shows in the glass. These primitivos (IGT, Gioia del Colle DOC, and Riserva Gioia del Colle DOC) have concentration with good levels of bramble fruit, tannin, and acidity, without being jammy. Viglione also displayed a Fiano, and a delicious blend of half and half Aleatico and Primitivo with medium-light body and an aroma of cherry with floral notes.

Campania is on the other side of Italy across from Puglia. The main region for grapes is in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius and most soils are volcanic, or have a volcanic component. Vini Alois featured two white wines and three red wines from this region. Pallagrello Bianco is a rescued variety which has been nursed back from near extinction over the last 30 years. The wine had an engaging lime citrus bouquet with pleasant acidity. The other white, Falaghina, is a variety that is largely unknown here, but was one of my favourites in the show with juicy acidity and a combination of floral and citrus flavours. The reds were also from less common varietals: Aglianico, Cassavecchia, and a blend of Pallagrello Nero and Cassavecchia. Cassavecchia is another rescued grape, coming from a single vine discovered in a small walled garden.The blend was nicely tart and of medium body. The 100% Cassavecchia was obviously young with forward tannins, but showing signs of a being wonderful in a few years. The Aglianico had brilliant red intensity, with edgy but approachable tannins.

Staying in the south of the country I visited two producers from Sicily. Cantine Petrosino is located near the Marsala (most westerly) end of the island. They showed me two white wines which were 100% Grillo, and both were superb, but quite different from each other. The IGP Triglia 2015 had light citrus and white stone fruit flavours and aromas, while the IGP Brezza Mediterranea 2015 showed tropical fruit with its citrus bouquet.

Sentieri Siciliani is on the eastern side of the island in Catania, on the edge of Mount Etna. Their Etna Bianco 2015, which is a blend of Carricante and Catarratto, was also superb with rich full flavour and fresh acidity. The Frappato 2015 was full of juicy red fruit aromas and reminded me of cranberry. The Etna Rosso DOC 2014 was a blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio.

Cantina Cormons is a cooperative consisting of more than 200 producers from the Friuli Venezia Giulia region adjacent to the border with Slovenia. This region has long been well known for its white wines, and Cormons did not disappoint. My favourites included a Prosecco, which showed a depth of flavour I rarely see in this style of sparkling wine. The delicious appley fruit of the Pinot Grigio Isonzo 2015 burst from the glass – this was not another washed out PG from Italy. Best of all was the Collio DOC Collio & Collio 2015 which was a blend of Friulano, Malvasia, and Ribolla – my only note is “absolutely wonderful”.

The rest of my tasting will be reported in the next installment of this blog. So far, perhaps you have noted, it has been the white wines that have been the most impressive. And the tasting has been full of many unfamiliar grape varieties. So much diversity! Something to keep a wine lover busy for a long time!