McLaren Vale, South Australia

McLaren Vale is just a 45 minute drive from Adelaide airport in South Australia and it was the next stop on my Australia/New Zealand wine tour. The Opimian Society has several suppliers in the region and I had plans to visit them all: Pertaringa, Hastwell & Lightfoot, K1 by Geoff Hardy, and Shottesbrooke.

McLaren Vale is one of the iconic wine regions of Australia noted especially for its expression of Shiraz. Squeezed between the suburbs of Adelaide to the north, the highlands of the south Mount Lofty Ranges to the east and south, and the ocean waters of the Gulf of St. Vincent to the west, the terrain is mostly flat or gently rolling. The climate is Mediterranean with most rain falling in the winter, and warm summers with lots of sun. It’s therefore no surprise that grape varieties from Spain, southern France, and Italy are well represented here: Shiraz (or Syrah), Mourvedre/Mataro, and Grenache/Garnacha representing close to 60% of production.  Varieties such as Montepulciano, Vermentino, and Tempranillo are growing in popularity. McLaren Vale is also phylloxera free, and many vines in the region would be self-rooted (as opposed to being grafted on pest-resistant American-based rootstock).

The upland areas that surround McLaren Vale are cooler, and are classified under the Adelaide Hills wine zone. The moderate conditions at elevation support the production of cool climate varietals. You will find many McLaren Vale wineries extend the range of their offerings with grapes from this area, as well as from Langhorne Creek.

The whole area of McLaren Vale is dotted with interesting eateries, coffee shops, specialty vendors, and a few high-end restaurants.These are situated in association with wineries, or in the villages and towns in the area, including the eponymous town of McLaren Vale. You have a wide choice of wine and food possibilities, whether you eat out, or make your own at your accommodations. Choices include pub style meals and entertainment which was particularly welcome when we were looking for a way to celebrate Paddy’s Day! You are not far from beaches, hiking and cycling paths, wildlife parks, and all the attractions of Adelaide wherever you stay in the region.

Thomas Hardy is one of the pioneers of the McLaren Vale wine industry and the founder of the well-known Hardy brand. Geoff Hardy is a descendant and left the family firm to make his own mark in the wine world. With his own family he operates Pertaringa in McLaren Vale, K1 by Geoff Hardy in the Adelaide Hills nearby, and Hand-Crafted by Geoff Hardy which is based on grape selections from premium properties across Australia. Bec Hardy and Richard Dolan were our generous hosts at Pertaringa where the the K1 Shiraz was my favourite. We later dropped by the beautiful setting of the K1 facility (see the picture below).

We spent a little time with Martin Lightfoot in his vineyards, watching the final Cab Sauv harvest with a towed mechanical harvester, and then checking out the Barbera that would be hand-picked later in the day. We dropped by the winery to see the grapes arriving from the field for crushing, and to sample some of the partially fermented juice from recent picking. It was quite amazing to already find varietal characteristics emerging in the unfinished wine. My favourite from the cellar door tasting was the 2015 Vermentino – just fabulous.

We had a quick tour of the Shottesbrooke winery as well, where they were just getting their Pinot Noir fermentation under way – an experimental variety for them. We were treated to a few special sips, including the Eliza Reserve Shiraz 2012, and the Punch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 which are only produced in special years – both exceptional.

Besides the Opimian suppliers we had time for a few more visits. The owner of the cottage we were renting turned out to work at the cellar door for Hugh Hamilton, so of course we dropped by – and we were glad that we did! The spectacular tasting facility is designed with floor-to-ceiling glass for a 360 degree view from the highest point in the main vineyard. The wines are as good as the view, with the limited release Pure Black Shiraz 2010 earning my top pick.

We dropped by Wirra Wirra whose wines have been offered through the NLC from time to time. They pride themselves on “good value” wines which are a little easier on the wallet but still show good quality. The RSW Shiraz 2013 caught my attention with rich bramble fruit, full body, and a long finish.

When some folks saw me taking notes at a tasting in Victoria and found out we were headed for McLaren Vale they told us we had to visit Mollydooker, so we did. I had never heard of them before, but it seems they have quite a following in the US. They unabashedly make huge jammy wines with lots of alcohol. If you like the style, then you need to get your hands on some of these wines.

Of the eight wine regions we visited during our tour, I would have to select McLaren Vale as my top wine experience.

K1 Sauvignon Blanc

K1 Cellar Door

Hastwell & Lightfoot Mystery Variety

Hastwell & Lightfoot Crush

Hastwell & Lightfoot Crush

Hastwell & Lightfoot

Hastwell & Lightfoot Cab Sauv

Hastwell & Lightfoot Mechanical Harvest

Wine Listings:

Peter Dennis Shiraz 2013, McLaren Vale (NLC $20.35) – This reminded me of some of the Shiraz we tasted around McLaren Vale on our trip. Aromas of Black Forest cake, including cherry and maybe dried cranberry, mocha, vanilla, and a touch of a spice I can’t quite put a name on. Smooth, easy-drinking tannins and pleasant mouth-feel. Score 15/Very Good.

Quicknotes:

• Watch for the upcoming NLC Bordeaux En Primeur event in June – more on this event later.
• Just read the Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace thanks to a share from a friend. It was published in 2008, so perhaps you already know this book. I found the description of so many well-known wine personalities fascinating, as well as the overall story. A recommended read.