Not Just the Okanagan

Here in Newfoundland and Labrador we know that Canada is making some very good wines, even if we don’t see many of them available locally. Every once in a while a special bottle will be slipped into one of our blind tastings of wines from around the world and be comfortable with the comparisons.

British Columbia is a leading producer of quality Canadian wine, and for most of us, BC wine is wine from the Okanagan Valley. But there is more to BC wine than the Okanagan! Although the Valley accounts for about 85% of the province’s output, there are four other defined regions as well as a grouping of “emerging” regions. On my most recent trip out west I visited five wineries of the Vancouver Island region. The remaining regions are Gulf Islands, Similkameen Valley, and Fraser Valley.

Vancouver Island is definitely cool climate country, especially when compared to the southern parts of the Okanagan. While there are plenty of hours of sunshine, and little risk of frost, the oceanic influence keeps high temperatures in check and reduces overall degree days. These conditions influence vine selection and so there are a few of the more recognizable varieties such as Pinot Gris, a lot of lesser known ones, such as Siegerrebe and Ortega, and hybrids such as Marechal Foch. I have enjoyed several different varieties from Vancouver Island, but for me the star is Pinot Noir.

Two previous trips to the Island developed my appreciation for what the region can produce with this contrary but delicious varietal. That appreciation was confirmed by the examples I tasted on my most recent expedition. Certainly one of the best Canadian pinots, and perhaps even one of the better pinots from anywhere, that I have ever had, is the Averill Creek Pinot Noir Reserve 2009 (first tasted in 2012). There is a common theme in my notes on this trip – Pinot Noir ranked among the best wines at each winery.

Here are the highlights from my mini tour:

 

Cherry Point Estate Wines
An estate winery (meaning all grapes are grown on their own property) which believes that wine is the expression of the soil. They produce about 4,000 cases a year.
Pinot Blanc 2015 – green apple and grassy aromas, fresh, with excellent acidity ♥♥
Pinot Noir Reserve 2014 (from gravel soil) – earthy, dark cherry, cedar ♥+
Pinot Noir Gitano 2014 (clay soil) – not so earthy, more cranberry and currant than cherry, sharper and less rounded tannins ♥+
Lágrimas Negras 2014 (Castel and Agria grapes) – full body, deep plummy fruit flavours, smooth tannins, complex aroma ♥♥
Cowichan Blackberry (dessert wine) – delicious sweet, rich blackberry fruit, don’t worry that it is not from grapes! ♥♥
Solera (applying the solera blending and aging process used to make sherry to the Cowichan Blackberry wine) – nose takes on whiskey notes, beautiful rounded rich fruit flavours‎, a stunner ♥♥♥

Averill Creek Vineyard

As mentioned already, their 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve is one of my all-time favourite pinots. They are the largest estate winery on the Island with 30 acres and nine varietals.
Pinot Noir 2014 – big aroma, dark cherry, earth, still tannic – needs to age‎, a bit dry in the finish, but may improve with age ♥♥
Cowichan Tawny (made in the style of a tawny port with blackberry wine) – aged 5 years, an interesting alternative tawny ♥+

Deol Estate Winery
They sell about 75% of their production to other wineries and make their own wine from the remainder. Their vines are about 20 years old. [It is important to note that many of the wineries on the Island are now reaching the point where their vines are mature and in their prime years for production of flavour-packed grapes.]
Pinot Gris 2012 – spicy aroma, intriguing apple spice flavour, nice finish, good acidity – ♥♥
Pinot Noir 2012 – cherry fruit and more intriguing spice on the nose, pale, good finish, good acidity, medium/light body ♥♥

Vignetti Zanatta
The winery was the original experimental farm for vine growing on the Island and has about 40 varieties on the property, some in just a few tiny patches. They produce about 2,500 cases per year.
Pinot Nero 2014 – used French oak, sour cherry & red cherry aroma, quite tart, juicy, some round tannins ♥+

Blue Grouse Estate Winery
Blue Grouse was the only winery where we didn’t get to taste Pinot Noir, and that was because it had sold out, which should tell you something. Their whites were quite a pleasant alternative!
Quill White 2015 ‎(Schonburger, Pinot Gris, Muller-Thurgau) – ‎pineapple, pear, nice fresh acidity, a touch flowery light ♥+
Quill Pinot Gris 2016 – Delicious! Crisp acidity, mellow apple and honey finish ♥♥+
Quill Off-Dry White 2016 – nice, crisp, with just a touch sweet in the mouth ‎♥♥