Thelema/Sutherland Wines – A Tasting

I admit to having a particular fondness for South African wine, in case it hasn’t already been obvious. My taste for the country developed following a week in the Western Cape wine district back in 2008. A steady trickle of wonderful wines through both the Opimian Society and the NLC has kept up my interest in the wines of the country.

South Africa does well with all of the standard varietals. They are major producers of Chenin Blanc based wines (which they call Steen), which is a little out of the ordinary. They are unique in the production of Pinotage, which is a cross between Cinsaut and Pinot Noir developed in the country in 1925. Not everyone likes this varietal as the wines were not made very well in the past. I enjoy the modern examples, and the “Cape Blend” in which Pinotage is mixed with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

A wine tasting dinner this summer held at Magnum & Steins introduced me to another quality supplier from South Africa and several wines that are relatively new to the NLC. Our host and presenter was Thomas Webb of Thelema Mountain Vineyards, son of the founder of the winery.

Thelema is located in the well-known Stellenbosch wine region, at the top of Helshootge Pass. The vineyards range from 370 to 640 meters above sea level, making it one of the coolest sites in the region. Back in 2008 it made Wine & Spirits list of Top 100 wineries in the world.

Sutherland is a companion label owned by Thelema for wines it produces from its estate in the Elgin Valley. Elgin is located in the Overberg district, just east of Stellenbosch (under the word Stellenbosch in the image). The region is only 9 kilometers from the southern Atlantic ocean and its cool maritime-influenced climate provides for slow ripening and vibrant fruit flavours.

Our evening started with the Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (NLC $17.65) serving as the reception wine. Citrus and grassy aromas were most evident, with hints of tropical fruit. Crisp vibrant acidity and freshness were the hallmarks of this wine. Score: 16/Very Good.

The remaining three wines were paired with three delicious food courses: duck confit, marinated lamb, and beef tenderloin (see details below). The Sutherland Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot 2013 (NLC $22.73) is 85% Cab and 15% PV and was served with the confit. The cassis aroma of cabernet was integrated with the violets I associate with petit verdot, and supported with some tobacco and cedar. The tannins were smooth and I couldn’t help think of some Médoc wines I have enjoyed. Score: 15/Very Good.

The lamb was accompanied by the Sutherland Syrah 2011 (NLC $22.73). It was juicy and “fruit sweet”, with grippy yet smooth tannins. The black fruit flavours were delicious. Score: 15/Very Good.

The last course, the tenderloin, arrived with a special treat, the Thelema Shiraz 2012 (not available locally). This was a big, soft wine with great acidity and smooth tannins. Once again there was black fruit, but with the addition of spice and black pepper. Score: 16/Very Good. It proved to be a fitting end to a wonderful food and wine tasting, and maintained for me my appreciation of South African wines.