Tuscany v Chianti

Chianti is likely the best known of all the Italian wine labels. If someone asks you to name an Italian wine, Chianti is sure to pop into your head.

Chianti is based on the Sangiovese grape variety (> 80%), and is usually a blend of several grape varieties. The original formula of the blend included white grapes, but that is now prohibited in the Chianti Classico appellation. Chianti Classico represents the original area of production of this type of wine dating back to the 1700s, but the overall Chianti region covers a larger territory after an expansion in the last century. All Chianti appellations fall within the region of Tuscany.

While Sangiovese and Chianti are almost synonymous, the grape is widely grown across central Italy including other parts of Tuscany. Brunello di Montalcino is also from Tuscany and is 100% Sangiovese (although it is called Brunello in that district).

Although Chianti was well known, under the older appellation laws, especially when the blend included white grapes, it did not enjoy a robust reputation. In the latter half of the last century some producers in the area, notably Piero Antinori and his uncle Mario Incisa della Rochetta, began planting French grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to produce wines which did not fall within the classification system – some made only with French grapes (e.g. Sassicaia) and others blending French grapes with Sangiovese (e.g. Tignanello).

These wines could not be labelled as Chianti, and instead carried a “table wine” designation despite the fact they grew to be in high demand and command super-premium prices. The success of these wines and the need to restore the reputation and markets for Chianti have led to adjustments in the definition of the Chianti designation. Other changes to the wine laws also now allow many of these “super Tuscans” to be labelled as IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) or DOC Bolgheri wines instead of table wines.

Monte Antico 2012, IGT Toscana (NLC $18.89), is a typical super-Tuscan blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon even if it does not carry the hefty price tag of the big labels. The wine presents some typical Sangiovese notes of cherry and herbal aromatics with good acidity, matched with the backbone and extended palate of the French grapes. Score: 14.5/Good.

Since I was looking at Chianti and Tuscan wines, I went back to a couple of wines I tasted and purchased at the Wine Show last year. At the time I thought the Guidi Chianti DOCG and Chianti Riserva DOCG were two of the best Chiantis I had ever tasted. I enjoyed both of these in the past week, and I can confirm my initial impressions – great wines! I can only hope they will be listed here soon.

Rosé from Provence

Dialog Wines is hosting a tasting of rosé wines from Provence and some other wines from the region on Friday, March 3 called “Yes Way, Rosé“. The tasting will feature a representative from the producer, Jean Philippe Turgeon.