Preview Tasting – Dialog Wines & Great Vintages

The first night of the Wine Show is my favourite as it includes “special selections” as part of the program. The wines available for tasting are from the best regions, vineyards, and producers around the world. Although the offerings change from year to year, you can find great Bordeaux labels such as Château Margaux and Château Ausone, big Australians such as Grange, Opus One from California, and Sassicaia from Tuscany.

You are able to buy from a limited supply of these big names at the show, but for most of us, the sip at the tasting table will be the most we can afford. Beside these blockbuster wines you will find some very well made, and just a little less famous offerings. They are still expensive, but perhaps you would be willing to splurge on a bottle or two for a special occasion after enjoying a sample.

I recently attended a tasting hosted by two local agencies, Dialog Wines and Great Vintages, which highlighted the possibilities for special selections night. In contrast to last week’s preview which offered a range of countries, styles, varieties, and prices, this event focused on well some known Bordeaux châteaux: Château Carbonnieux, Château Lagrange, Château Villemaurine, and Château La Pointe.

Two vintages were offered for tasting for each of the wines: 2009 and 2010. These two years are the best two vintages in Bordeaux of the decade since the wonderful 2005 vintage. Although both years are rated top-notch, all the wine representatives were unanimous in describing them as quite different. The growing season for 2009 was warm and steady with just the right injection of moisture and sun at the right times. There were no extreme events, and the fruit ripened at a moderate and steady pace until it was picked in optimum conditions. The wines from this year show lots of ripe fruit, rounded structures, and rich concentration.

The following year is considered to be a “classic” vintage. Drought conditions with lots of sun in the summer were followed by just enough rain in September to make the vintage. Cooler weather then helped preserve acidity while clear conditions during harvest allowed wine-makers to wait until the perfect moment for picking. Yields were down, and the size of the fruit smaller. The wines have great structure, with the tannins and acidity perhaps hiding the great concentration of fruit at this stage.

Both vintages will have a long life, and while the 2009s are already drinkable, the 2010s will benefit from a little more age before full enjoyment. It was a real treat to be able to taste them side by side from a range of wineries across Bordeaux.

The great year does not only apply to red wines. I started my tasting with two whites from Château Carbonnieux from AC Pessac-Léognan:

Château Carbonnieux Blanc 2009 ($45.00) – Delicious complexity of fruit and acidity – Score: 16.5/Very Good

Château Carbonnieux Blanc 2010 ($45.00) – Quite similar to the 2009, but not opened up yet – Score: 16/Very Good

Château Carbonnieux 2009 ($42.06) – Score: 15/Very Good

Château Carbonnieux 2010 ($38.15) – I preferred the 2010 to the 2009 as it showed lovely complexity, and rich flavour – Score: 15.5/Very Good

The next tasting stop was Château Lagrange, AC Saint-Julien, in the heart of Médoc. We started with the second wine, which was offered at quite an affordable price.

La Fiefs de Lagrange 2009 ($32.81) – It’s hard to believe this is a “second” wine (until you taste the next two!) as this is good quality at a value price – Score:16/Very Good.

Château Lagrange 2009 ($75.00) – The quality of this wine shocked me. I have had many Bordeaux wines over the years, but this one got my attention. Concentrated and structured, yet silky smooth and absolutely lovely on the tongue with an long finish – Score: 18/Excellent.

Château Lagrange 2010 ($85.00) (served from a decanter) – How could the 2010 be more impressive than the 2009, but it was! All the great fruit and concentration, but with more of an edge. These were two pricey wines, but worthy of a very special occasion – Score: 18.5/Excellent.

We then moved to the right bank for some Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Château Villemaurine, and Pomerol, Château La Pointe.

Château Villemaurine 2009 ($65.00) – Score: 16/Very Good

Château Villemaurine 2010 ($65.00) – Score: 16/Very Good

Château La Pointe 2009 ($55.00) – These were almost as good as the Lagrange with quite expressive fruit, if slightly not as “grand”. Perhaps a little softer and plummier than the Médoc wines, they were quite impressive, expecially considering the price difference – Score: 17/Very Good

Château La Pointe 2010 ($50.33) – As per the vintage descriptions, there was just that extra edge to the 2010 which promised long cellar life and classic taste – Score: 17/Very Good