Our base of operations for two days of wine tasting in the Okanagan was the Observatory B&B perched high above Osoyoos, at the southerly end of the Canadian part of the Valley (see the view above).
Our trip left me in little doubt that the Okanagan is Canada’s wine country (while acknowledging that there are wonderful wines being made across the country). From Naramata to Osoyoos, some 100 km of highway, you are almost always in site of a vineyard. And in the final stretch from Oliver (the self-declared Wine Capital of Canada) to Osoyoos you feel like you might be driving through some European wine region, except for the mountains.
More than just the vineyard scenery, the Valley is producing excellent white wines, and almost certainly the best range of top red wines in Canada. The southern Okanagan is probably the only region in Canada where one can expect to consistently ripen the major red wine grapes – and it shows in the character and finesse of wines from many producers. On site in BC, the wine prices were quite competitive with wines of similar or even lesser quality from around the world.
We tasted five wineries on each of our two days. The first day was spent on the Naramata Bench and in Okanagan Falls. Day two saw us touring around Oliver, the Golden Mile Bench, and Black Sage Road. Below are some highlights from our tastings.
Located on the east side of the southern end of Lake Okanagan, just above Penticton.
The red wines were mostly sold out, but there some excellent whites to enjoy.
2017 Riesling Clone 21B, $22 – Alsace-style; juicy acidity; lime, apple, and floral aromas; medium weight. ♥♥+
2017 Sauvignon Blanc, $23 – Marlborough-style; grassy, herbal aromatics; tropical fruit comes through on the palate; delicious. ♥♥+
2017 Chardonnay, $22 – Delivers on its peaches and cream sub-title with cream, apple-spice, and vanilla notes to accompany the fresh fruit. ♥♥+
One of the surprises of the trip, a tiny winery making wines with minimal influence from technology (on purpose). A very good Bordeaux Blanc and a stunning 100% Semillon. Tastings are accompanied by artisanal cheeses made on site at Poplar Grove Cheese.
2017 Sauvignon/Semillon, $20 – Reminds you of a Bordeaux Blanc; crisp, smooth, and fresh; leans to the Sauv Blanc side. ♥♥+
2016 Semillon, $30 – 15 months of neutral oak has produced a stunningly flavourful wine with “presence”. Reminds me of the wines from Tyrell’s in the Hunter Valley. ♥♥♥
Another new winery for me, with the best Pinot Noir of our visit. Dylan Roche, one of the wine-makers, spent time with us explaining each wine, vineyard slopes, etc.
2015 Pinot Gris (Tradition), $29 – Eight months in neutral oak in a warm vintage have produced a round, smooth and overall brilliant wine of medium weight and layers of apple flavour. ♥♥+
2015 Pinot Noir (Tradition), $35 – Another wine from the same warm vintage blending grapes from both east and west slopes of the estate, and using 20% new French oak; a wine easily mistaken for something from the Côte de Beaune. ♥♥♥
Located at the southern end of Skaha Lake.
A discovery from my last visit in 2015, this tiny winery of only about 2,000 cases a year had the best reds of our first day.
2017 Pinot Blanc, $22 – juicy acidity; melon and tropical fruits. ♥♥+
2017 Mystique, $21 – a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, also showing melon and tropical fruit, with pear and sweet apple, and nice finish. ♥♥+
2014 Merlot, $26 – Twenty-four months of oak aging have developed a rich bouquet of dark fruit, plums, and spice. ♥♥♥
2015 Cabernet Franc, $26 – From the warm vintage, spicy cherry and red fruit with just a touch of herbs, and smooth tannins. ♥♥+
2013 Impulsion Reserve, $29 – Another warm vintage year this blend of 60/40 Merlot & Cabernet Franc spent 20 months in French oak; showing layers of flavour, mocha, and a great finish. ♥♥♥
This producer has been available at the NLC from time to time.
2017 Stevens Block Chardonnay, $28 – loaded with tropical fruit, pear, and apple; good acidity. ♥♥♥
2016 MacLean Creek Road Chardonnay, $33 – New and older French oak show in the oak and matchstick tones on this lovely Chard. ♥♥+
2016 Tribute Series Chardonnay, $33 – Quite Burgundian in style! ♥♥♥
2016 Old Block Pinot Noir, $50 – Rich fruit, but with that touch of tart acidity that I prefer. ♥♥+
The east side of the the Valley from Oliver to Osoyoos Lake (evening sun).
Le Vieux Pin WinerySpecializing in northern Rhône style Syrah wines – a doing a good job of it!
2016 Syrah “Cuvée Violette”, $30 – Just a touch of Viognier produces a lighter, aromatic style which one must call “violets”; long finish. ♥♥+
2015 Syrah “Cuvée Classique”, $45 – sweet, juicy, black fruit which needs more time for development. ♥♥+
A well rounded collection of whites and reds.
2017 Alibi, $27 – described as a Loire style of the Sauv Blanc (80%) and Semillon (20%) blend, it has good acidity and abundant aroma. ♥♥+
2016 Viognier, $25 – showing true varietal characteristics of peach and apricot supported with juicy acidity. ♥♥+
2016 Carmenere, (sold out) – brilliant carmine colour; ripe black cherry and dark fruit aromas; medium weight. ♥♥+
2015 Syrah, $40 – bacon fat on the nose with black fruit, good structure, but needs time to reach its full potential. ♥♥♥
2016 Nota Bene, $60 – Perfect balance of layers of fruit flavour and structure. ♥♥+
Desert Hills Estate WineryAn unassuming place with quite a variety of good value wines.
2017 Unoaked Chardonnay, $20 – tropical fruit, pineapple, juicy acidity, and citrus elements. ♥♥+
2017 Viognier, $25 – abundant peaches with apricot tones, good example of the varietal, excellent mouthfeel. ♥♥+
2017 Helena Rosé, $22 – abundant fresh raspberry and strawberry aromas and a surprisingly long finish make this a rosé worth mentioning. ♥♥+
2017 Gamay, $23 – with qualities that could be mistaken for a Villages or Cru Beaujolais, this is a rare Gamay that I would list as a highlight! ♥♥+
2013 Merlot, $25 – abundant black fruit aromas with tobacco/wood/tar, and vanilla; moderate finish. ♥♥♥
2013 Syrah, $37 – deep, dark fruit flavours and wood; classic white pepper; meaty palate, delicious. ♥♥♥
2013 Mirage, $40 – a Bordeaux blend that is quite like a quality Bordeaux red. ♥♥+
The west side of the Valley from Oliver to Osoyoos Lake (morning sun).
Arguably the best reds in the Valley, they sell out their 5,000 cases each year to those “in the know”.
2017 Sauvignon Blanc, $23 – barrel-fermentation produces a wine of juicy acidity without sharp edges, supporting a melon and tropical fruit bouquet. ♥♥+
2015 Mad Cap Red, $25 – a Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend which shows excellent fruit treating the whole palate; fresh flavours; good structure. ♥♥+
2015 The Bear, $45 – a blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot aged in 40% new oak has produced a wine with mature fruit complexity, and layers of flavour; black fruit and spice! ♥♥♥
2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, $50 – yes you can get fully ripe Cabernet Sauvignon in Canada, and here it is, supported with smooth silky tannins. ♥♥♥
2015 Cabernet Franc (Fumé Franc), $35 – a touch of the smoke from the 2015 Valley fires adds to the complexity of this wine; very ripe and lovely fruit; smooth tannins. ♥♥♥
2016 Cabernet Franc, $35 – all the lovely fruit and structure of the 2015, but without the touch of smoke appeal! ♥♥+
A labour of love from the Triggs part of Jackson-Triggs – my first visit to a class act.
2016 Decora Riesling, $21 – brilliant acidity supports a rich palate, lime tones throughout, could be mistaken for a Mosel. ♥♥♥
2017 Unicus Gruner Veltliner, $27 – typical acidity for this varietal, but a tad sweeter, and less grassy/herbal than my favourites from Austria; still worthy of mention. ♥♥+
2015 Dilemma Chardonnay, $34 – buttery explosion on light toast, with a touch of citrus and pineapple; long finish; fresh acidity. ♥♥♥
2014 Merlot, $35 – plummy fruit, grainy tannins will benefit from some time; well-balanced, an intense sort of Pomerol. ♥♥♥
2013 Hypothesis, $46 – classic Bordeaux blend showing a balance of red and black fruit flavours; ripe and mature fruit; young tannins will need many years yet. ♥♥♥
We had been interested in setting a date for a dinner and tasting with our two close-by friends, but it was derailed by the recent omicron surge! Instead, we arranged to dine separately, but using the same wine selection, and then connect on Zoom over the dessert wine and discuss the wines, and the match […]
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Steve Delaney
June 20, 2018
Canada
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