The Spanish word “verde” means green. Coming from a European language with roots in Latin, it has relatives in French (“vert”), Italian, Portuguese and other languages. It’s no surprise then to find so many green grapes around Europe with similar names based on this root.
Portugal has two Verdelho’s, one of which is a major grape in Madeira, the other being the Dão regional name for the Godello grape from Galicia in Spain. Italy has the well known Verdicchio and Verduzzo, as well as Verdea, Verdello, Verdeca, and Verdiso. France has the Verdesse. Along the way, there are a number of even more obscure varieties that are variations of these names.
Spain’s contribution is the Verdejo (not to be confused with the Verdejo Colorado, Verdejo Negro, and Verdejo Serrano which are all unrelated grapes!). The vine seems to have its origins in Rueda, a wine region located on the Duero river, more or less between the red wine regions of Ribera del Duero and Toro. It is the major white wine grape of this part of Castilla y Léon and Castilla – La Mancha and is well adapted to the continental climate, low-fertility soils, and plentiful sunshine of the area.
Verdejo is easily oxidized and this partly explains why, for most of its wine-producing history, it has been used to make fortified wines resembling Sherry in style. About forty years ago Marqués de Riscal began producing Verdejo wines in the fresh, dry style we enjoy for most of our white wines today. Harvest for these wines is usually conducted at night with its much cooler temperatures helping prevent oxidation.
Wines designated as Rueda must contain at least 50% Verdejo with the balance usually being made up from Sauvignon Blanc and Macabeo. Wines labelled as Rueda Verdejo must be a minimum of 85% Verdejo. Such wines are usually described as full-bodied with good acidity and some nutty characteristics, especially with aging. Verdejo works well with oak for fermentation and aging and does age well. One of my earliest experiences with this grape was a delicious mature bottle that could have been mistaken for a white Burgundy of similar longevity.
My recent experience with the grape was a youthful Nebla Verdejo 2014 (NLC $18.23) produced by Vincente Gandia. This wine was harvested at night, as noted on the label, and is 100% Verdejo. The abundant aroma is an enticing combo with hints of pineapple, anise, herbs, and delicate white flowers. The wine is medium bodied but mouth-filling with buttery, waxy tones accenting the fruit. I could not find any nuttiness, but that probably requires a little more age, Score: 16/Very Good.
Having made my own notes I looked at the producer’s tasting notes from their web site. It was refreshing to see a similarity to my comments in the basic taste characteristics. The notes from this producer seem reliable and not made just for marketing purposes.