French wine has had a prominent place in world markets and on our liquor store shelves for some time. Most of the world produces wine based on French grape varietals. Nearly half of the NLC wine listings are French. This level of dominance can only be achieved by substance, even if a little good marketing helps.
Wine regions in France are as well established and as productive as the wine industries of whole countries. Bordeaux would be considered by most to be the most well known of those regions. Bordeaux produces some of the most sought after and expensive wines in the world, as well as large volumes of less noted, but good quality, wine.
The scale of wine activity in Bordeaux can be difficult to grasp. There are about 700 wineries in all of Canada. There are over 7,000 in Bordeaux. The operations of those wineries spread out into all areas of the economy in supporting industries such as barrel making, farming equipment, and transportation, as well as sectors such as tourism. The region represents about 1.5% of world wine production.
Red wine makes up nearly 90% of Bordeaux production. Both reds and whites are almost always blends of two or more varieties: mainly Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc for whites; and Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc for reds. Bordeaux is informally divided between the “Left Bank” where Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be the dominant grape in red blends, and the “Right Bank” where Merlot is the leader.
The left bank includes well known terroirs such as Médoc and Sauternes, and labels such as Château Latour and Château Margaux. On the right bank we find the famous appellations of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion.
Bordeaux has an “interesting” climate that would not be too different from our experience here with a maritime climate. Overall they get more sun and heat than we do, but that comes with considerable variability, storms, and periods of wet, dry, or freezing weather. The particular conditions of each vineyard as well as the skills of the growers and vintners are important to how the wine turns out each year.
The NLC’s upcoming Wines of Bordeaux event is an excellent opportunity to explore such differences between vintages and wineries, as well as to check out this important wine region. Some 40 châteaux representing 100 labels from the left and right bank will be presenting wines from the 2011 and 2012 vintages. I had the opportunity to explore some of those differences over the holidays.
Château Gazin is is in the Pomerol appellation. The 2011 had an abundant, fruity nose with good supporting acidity. The tannins dominated the fruit at this point and left one wondering and hoping that aging would soften the wine and allow its finer qualities to shine through. The 2012 was made from 100% Merlot as wet conditions hindered the ripening of the Cabernet varieties. This is evident in the more approachable tannins and fruitier/fleshier wine which made for good early drinking.
Domaine de Chevalier is located in the Pessac-Leognan (Graves) appellation on the left bank. Close to two-thirds of the Rouge blend is Cabernet Sauvignon. Both the 2011 and 2012 were approachable with silky tannins already evident. Both wines showed good black fruit on the nose with oak tones. These wines should show development with time. This Domaine has a history of producing long-lived wines.
Château d’Armailhac is in the Pauillac appellation, located within Médoc, and is one of the “classified growths” dating from 1855. Although the noses on both the 2011 and 2012 were a little restrained at this point, the dark fruit was evident and accentuated by meat, menthol, and barnyard highlights.The 2011 made for exceptional drinking already with good body and complexity already showing – perhaps reflecting good conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2012 seemed a little lighter in comparison, but quite tasty nonetheless!