Chile is not the first place I think of when considering a cool climate varietal such as chardonnay or pinot noir.
These two grapes have their origins, and perhaps reach their zenith, in the vineyards of the Côte d’Or in Burgundy, France. There seems to be just the right combination of moderate heat, sunlight, and cool evenings to bring out the best in the vineyards, at least in the better growing years.
Chardonnay, compared to pinot noir, has had more success in a wider range of different regions. North of the Côte d’Or it is grown in the even cooler climates of Chablis and Champagne, as well in warmer regions such as California and Australia.
Pinot Noir is usually more difficult to grow and turn into fine wine. Regions which have had success are all marked by their cool climate conditions. Canadian pinots from Niagara, Prince Edward County, and various appellations in British Columbia show very well in tastings, and of course Canada is certainly a cool growing region.
Parts of California which are influenced by offshore breezes and fogs, such as Carneros and the Russian River Valley, have also met with success with pinot noir. New Zealand, Tasmania, and Oregon also make good wines from the grape.
Chile, on the other hand, we most often associate with Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Merlot. Our liquor board shelves are full of such wines. These grapes want lots of heat and sun to achieve proper ripeness. Heat and sun is something Chile usually delivers without issue, every year. The main vineyard areas generally get no rain during the growing season, and depend on irrigation from Andean rivers.
The Pacific Ocean along the coast of Chile, however, is notably cold due to the influence of the Humboldt Current which flows from the Antarctic. Select vineyard locations at breaks in the Coastal Mountain range are chilled by the fogs, clouds, and cool air masses moving in from the ocean.
The Casablanca Valley region near Valparaiso was Chile’s first cool climate area and has established its reputation for growing Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Just a little south, the San Antonio Valley is even closer to the ocean and is showing similar success with these varietals.
The Aconcagua Valley, north of Santiago, Casablanca, and San Antonio (closer to the equator), however, has built its reputation on the quality of its red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon. Eventually, however, the Aconcagua reaches the Pacific, and the coastal area of this wine region has now started to be planted with cool climate varietals.
Chilean wine regions were originally defined in a series of layers from south to north, moving from cooler and wetter, to drier and warmer. In 2012 Chile improved these definitions by recognizing the influences of the ocean and the higher altitudes of the foothills using the “Costa” and “Andes” designations. The “Entre Cordilleras” designation covers the traditional vine growing areas between the Coastal and Andean ranges.
A new wine at the NLC from Aconcagua Costa is the Errazuriz Max Reserva Pinot Noir (NLC $19.29). The wine was a typical pinot in colour and showed an attractive and elegant nose of juicy red cherry fruit backed up with smoky accents. There was a little sour cherry or cranberry crispness added in the mouth which contributed to the overall success of this wine for me. Absolutely stunning. Score: 17.5/Excellent.