The kangaroos in the state of Victoria in Australia discovered they liked grapes when there was a shortage of their normal native food. Ever since they have joined deer and birds as pests in the vineyards of the Yarra Valley and other regions of the state. (Roos in the Hunter Valley haven’t found out about grapes yet!)
Plantings of vines in Victoria date back to the mid 19th Century and at one time the state produced more than half the wine in Australia. Today it boasts nearly as many wineries as all of Canada, although other states have overtaken it in total production.
Victoria boasts a wide range of climatic conditions and wine styles. The Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, and Henty are examples of cool climate regions which specialize in single varietal Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and similar wines. These areas have much more reliable wine production than other cool climate regions like we have in Canada! Altitude, some cooling breezes, and large swings between day and night temperatures provide the necessary influences for the cool climate style.
Yarra Yering, Coldstream Hills, and Mount Mary are some of the iconic producers of the Yarra Valley, founded by iconic figures in Australia’s wine pantheon. Bailey Carrodus (Yarra Yering), James Halliday (Coldstream), and John Middleton (Mount Mary) helped put the Yarra Valley, Victoria, and Australia on the international wine map. James Halliday is still working today as a wine writer and critic, publishing the well known Wine Companion.
A logical style for cooler climates which produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is sparkling wine. The Champagne house of Moet & Chandon established Domaine Chandon in the Yarra in the 1970s, and there are now many sparkling wine producers.
Rutherglen and Glenrowan have warmer continental climates capable of producing full-bodied red wines from varieties such as Shiraz. These two regions are also famous for sweet fortified wines including “port” (although that label can no longer be used) and liqueur muscats made similarly to Madeira with raisined grapes and long barrel aging in the hot climate.
The region hosts numerous unlikely varieties perhaps as experiments with the local environment, or maybe just at the whim of the winemakers. You can find Portuguese varieties such as Tinto Cao and Sousão, Graciano from Spain, Durif from France, and Nebbiolo from Italy.
The Coldstream Hills Deer Farm Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 showed me what the Yarra Valley is able to create. This was just a wonderful Chardonnay with citrus and mineral in the nose, beautifully balanced with and supported by the subtle use of oak.
Pfeiffer from Rutherglen produces a range of cool climates varietals, as well as some delicious fortified sweets. I was able to sample a range of “Topaque” wines made from Muscadelle and aged an average of 5 years, 10 years (Classic), 18 years (Grand), and 25 years (Rare) – simply amazing! And there is a similar range made from Muscat.
We can only hope to see more wines from Victoria in our local stores.