California was probably the first of the new world wine producing countries to make it on the international stage. Australia started its rapid rise to popularity in the 1990s.South Africa has rejoined the international markets since the end of apartheid and new investments in the industry.
Chile came along as a value competitor of Australia and California. Across the Andes, Argentina observed Chile’s progress and set out to emulate it, with success.
Argentina has been producing wine since Spanish colonists first planted vines there in the 16th century. Over the centuries production grew mainly to satisfy internal consumption. Just 60 years ago Argentineans were drinking 90 liters of wine per capita! Quantity was king and quality of little consequence. Wine was sold in refillable four-liter glass jugs.
Changes in lifestyle and the availability of soft drinks resulted in a major drop in consumption, although at 55 liters per capita in the 1990s, it would still be five times per person what we drink here in Canada today. The massive reduction in internal consumption was the impetus for change. Vineyards were ripped up, and with an eye to Chile’s experience, winemakers looked to maintain production through exports.
A shift to grow exports required major improvements in quality, but Argentina has the natural potential for that quality. Mendoza province is Argentina’s largest wine producing region and responsible for the largest portion of its wine exports. Perhaps it comes as no surprise that Mendoza is situated directly across the Andes from Chile’s most important wine regions and shares some of the same features.
Mendoza has a continental climate and enjoys lots of heat and sun during the growing season to ensure full ripening of the grapes. Vineyards are found between 600m and 1200m in altitude which both intensifies sunlight during the day (less atmospheric filtering) and offers some cooling relief overnight. It also works to extend the growing season for complete berry development and ripeness. The semi-arid desert conditions mean that little rain will fall to spoil key points in the growth cycle while making irrigation essential. Dry conditions also inhibit the development of many diseases.
Winemakers began to make use of these natural advantages in improving wine quality. Grape production has fallen considerably relative to the value of production – wines are more concentrated and flavourful. Domestic consumption has continued to drop (down to the mid 30s in liters per person) but exports have flourished, particularly to Canada and the United States. I witnessed this shift in focus when I visited a winery in Mendoza in 2004 and saw heaps of abandoned glass jugs in the back lot, a cellar of huge, empty wooden vats preserved for history, and shiny new stainless steel production equipment.
My wine for this week is the Norton Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2011 (NLC $20.27), which comes from the Luján de Cuyo sub-region of Mendoza, the first designated appellation in Argentina. The vineyards are located at 1100m. The aroma shows ripe black currant fruitiness characteristic of the grape. The wine is full and long in the mouth, with a good balance of smooth tannins, freshness, and fruit. Score 15.5/Very Good.